Climbing washington pass liberty crack climb

First is the east face, with its steep big wall climbs. Excellent write up of the fa history, authors own ascent story and a good topo and route description. This is the big one the tallest mountain in the northeast. Washington towers over its neighbors at an elevation of 6,288ft. The liberty crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof 2 pitches upon its right side. Stay for a long weekend and climb multiple spires in the liberty bell group or hike into something like silverstar or the wine spires. These granite rock climbs feature both crack and face climbing, on rock.

Here we will help with the basics of how to crack climb, from the right shoes to the right gloves to the right technique. Located on a standalone rock, this climb is an absolute mustdo for any trad climberwhether you climb 5. Mount washington in winter northeast mountaineering. I first climbed liberty crack in august 2009, with my climbing mentor clint cummins, who drove all the way up from california to climb for a week with me.

Rock climb liberty crack, northwest region mountain project. Do you want to climb the mountain that is known to have the worst weather in the world. Its best known for summit climbs like the beckey route and liberty crack on liberty bell, the closest tower to the road. Rising from a starting elevation of 2,050 feet to 6,288 feet, mt.

Participants can expect an 810 hour climb up the winter lion. Aac publications liberty bell, the dark side of liberty. The book has a nice combination of classics as well as moderate and fun looking newer and less known routes which is nice. Liberty bell stands guard over washington pass, and all climbers driving over highway. Washington pass s climbing history dates back to the 1930s with a lot of routes going up in the 1960s and 1970s. This crack system brings you up to a somewhat intimidating roof with a bombay flaring chimney running through it luckily this is not where the route goes. The best climbing on freedom rider is actually on liberty crack, and the medusa roofs despite having one of the coolest names of any pitch were just a big wet chimney, not what we had imagined for the best 5. Ice climbing in washington north american iceclimbing. The climbing varies from easy 400 foot routes to difficult multiday aid routes on its 1200 foot east face. Deepest day of the year at stevens pass the good life pnw episode 3 duration. Mondo restaurant at 60102 wa20, marblemount, wa 98267.

Located on the spectacular washington pass, liberty bell is a domelike mass that is one of 5 peaks that comprise the liberty bell massif. Washington pass the place to get a taste of that alpine ambiance at the cost of a cragging approach. Hike the cathedral rock trail to squaw lake and beyond to cathedral pass. Besides the great climbing to approach ratio, the relatively pointy summits composed of mostly solid granite are the other draw here. Our mission is to make washington a better place to climb through advocacy, stewardship, and education. The liberty crack is listed in the book the 50 classic climbs of north. Liberty bell stands guard over washington pass, and all climbers driving over highway 20 stop to drool. This particular wall can be found at approximately 3500 feet, 1. Washington pass climbing north cascades mountain guides. The smashandgrab school of weekend maximization rei co. The wcc is a 501c3 nonprofit organization ein 421644686 search. Liberty mountain climbing blog facebook instagram twitter.

Following this there is an excellent crack system to follow with many sections of high quality 5. While researching the history of the route for a guidebook cascades rock i learned that the crux pitch a crack climb and by far the hardest lead had never seen a redpoint ascent, but. Washington pass climbing liberty bell, concord, lexington. Pitch fours belay is exposed and hanging, with one 38 bolt sloppily placed, backed up. The washington pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5. Faster parties with aid climbing experience can climb the route in a single day. V liberty crack, but there is quite a bit of climbing for the slightly less ambitious. Washington pass in the north cascades, liberty bell 7,720 is a striking granite monolith that harbors a number of great routes, from easy novice climbs. How to get started climbing cracks, from fingersize to the wide stuff, and the sizes in between. This route has much less fixed gear than liberty crack, though pitches one, two and four feature nice bolted stances, though hanging. Park in the nordic center lot and hike to the climbs. Washington is situated at the intersection of three major storm tracks which affect the northern appalachian range. The liberty crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof 2.

Liberty crack liberty bell north cascades, washington, usa. Scramble up the south ridge or from the peggys pond trail until you reach the rock formation. And while it holds countless classics, sail away is one of the best. Washington pass climbing info everything you need to.

Liberty bell mountain is located in the north cascades, approximately one mile south of washington pass on the north cascades highway. Washington pass is an alpine climbing area with all the usual hazardsstorms, loose rock, snowfields. Free supertopo to liberty crack and cutthroat peak. The mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the pacific northwest. It is known for erratic weather and extremely strong winds.

The rock quality is generally solid and clean with good texture. New england winter climbing new hampshire mountain guides. Washington pass is the largest collection of easily accessible alpine rock. The area also has classic aid routes such as liberty crack on liberty bell. Everything except the lithuanian lip can be climbed free at up to 5. Most routes climb high quality granite crack systems on traditional climbing gear. Park at the turnout on the hairpin turn just east of washington pass on highway 20. It leads to a large crack in the next set of blocky boulders, up to a finger crack over a slab, leading left to right around a corner. The famed liberty crack route was added in 1965, and most other of what are. Skinner burned out the grease with a blowtorch, and eventually succeeded on what was, at that time, the most difficult crack climb in the u. Washington pass is really more of an alpine rock climbing area than a. The beckey route also called south west face on liberty bell is the most famous climb in the liberty bell group and a alpine classic. Climb to the summit of liberty bell via the beckey route. There are hundreds of possible climbing and scrambling routes in the washington pass area from 3rd and 4th class scrambles to moderate alpine classics to aid climbing lines.

The supertopo washington pass climbing book is a fantastic guide to one of the better alpine areas in washington state. There is an awesome crack running out right that you. The rock is excellent granite and the tower has two routes on the north face and two routes on the south face. Beautiful new testpiece in north cascades climbing magazine.

The key to going fast on liberty crack is free climbing as much as possible. Of the remaining six pitches, three were fun and sustained 5. Photo overlay of liberty crack on aerial photo taken in feb 2012, created in 2017. The third pitch starts off with class 3 climbing for the first 30 feet. The liberty crack is a technical rock climbing route on liberty bell mountain near washington pass and is featured in fifty classic climbs of north america. Classics like the southwest buttress of south early winter spire make for rewarding outings for intermediate climbers, while the spectacular liberty crack challenges the most advanced. Pete told me that they were going to climb liberty crack, so i told him that i would make a video of it. Joshua tree needs little introduction as a paradise for funky and unique granite crack climbing. For the best and most complete guide book to climbing in the area pick up a copy ian. This is just to give you a general idea of what to bring. Rock climb liberty crack free, northwest region mountain project. Its a good line and im sure its better when dry, but overall the value is more in the position than the climbing.

If you pass the washington pass overlook, you have gone too far. Liberty bell beckey route north cascade mountain guides. This pitch is one of the most enjoyable of the climb, combining slab and. We are able to customize trips for climbers of all abilities. Finally, is the mercifully short approach, especially for a cascades climb. Liberty bell is the most northern spire of the liberty bell group, a group of spires which also includes concord tower, lexington tower, north early winters spire, and south early winters spire it is a well known peak in washington, although it lacks high. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Liberty crack, on the east face of liberty bell, is one of the most famous routes in the pacific northwest. The beckey route is quite possibly the most famous alpine rock climb in all of the north cascades. In 20, a new route was established by darin berdinka and gene pires on the north side of vesper. The trail will bring you to the east face of liberty bell. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack. But the supershort approach from state route 20short by alpine standards anywayalong with a selection of great. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with reallife experiences and advice from fellow climbers.

Climbing cracks requires very different movements from face climbing there is some overlap, and theres also the issue of protection. Washington passs climbing history dates back to the 1930s with a lot of routes going up in the 1960s and 1970s. The clean granite of washington pass and the liberty bell group provides some of the best and most accessible alpine rock climbing in the pacific northwest. However, crack climbing can be an acquired taste, one that can bring you to a world of pain and misery. Today, crack climbing is often viewed as the territory of fearless. The adventure junkies is here to put you on the right path to enjoying, not despising, cracks. Concord tower is the summit immediately south of liberty bell mountain in the liberty bell group above washington pass in the north cascades of washington state. The two classic routes are the 400 foot beckey route 5. She nabbed a first female ascent of the thin red line 5. For visiting climbers on the more advanced side of the spectrum you probably have your sights on the famous grade v liberty crack, but there is quite a bit of climbing for the slightly less ambitious. Then comes the south and west faces with modest climbs in the 5. Heres the rack we at supertopo bring when we climb around wa pass.